The product is tacked in place temporarily along one edge. Carefully peel away the backing, and put it in place, smoothing out any wrinkles. Remove the temporary nails. Install metal flashings where shingles meet walls or chimneys , too. Ice and water protector membranes work well to flash and help protect around skylights, dormers , turbines and other tricky roof areas.
Apply flashing materials in concert with the shingle installation procedure , with both the flashing and the shingles arranged to work together to protect around the joint areas. When applying the new shingles, each shingle course will be covered by a step flashing. Metal Step Flashing Pieces.
Note: Other step flashing sizes are also acceptable. To install the flashing piece on the first course, place it over the end of the starter strip.
Place it so the tab of the end shingle covers it completely. Secure the horizontal flange to the roof deck using two nails. Do not fasten the flashing piece to the vertical wall. This will allow the flashing piece to move independently of any differential expansion and contraction that may occur between the roof deck and the wall. Make sure that the tab of the shingle in the second course will cover it completely.
Secure the horizontal flange to the roof. The second and succeeding courses will follow with the end shingles flashed as in preceding courses. They provide a sealant adhesion point for the first course of shingles and provide water-shedding protection at shingle joints as well as at any cut-outs. Professional contractors often recommend and use starter strips along rake edges in order to yield a straight edge from which all the field courses can begin. You must place nails in the proper location and drive them flush with, but not cutting into, the shingle.
The hip and ridge caps. Well done! In this case, the finish line is the hip and ridge capping. Instead, individual ridge cap shingles are used to straddle the ridge and shed water down either slope. There are various ridge cap shingles available on the market but, once again, the procedure for installing them is based on the same fundamental principle of overlapping. For hips, start at the bottom and work upslope. The last ridge cap piece should be nailed in place and, since this will be the only place on the roof where the nails are directly exposed, the nail heads should be sealed and covered with a suitable asphalt roof cement.
Always remember to use longer nails for ridge cap shingles. Now that you have a greater insight into the major steps involved in how to shingle a roof, you can more fully understand the nuances of the entire process. You can also read our article describing how to replace shingles.
All rights reserved. The information on this website is subject to change without notice. IKO assumes no responsibility for errors that may appear on this website. IKO strives to accurately reproduce the screen images of the shingle swatches and house photos shown. However, due to manufacturing variances, the limitations of your monitor resolution and the variation in natural exterior lighting, actual colors may vary from the images you see.
To ensure complete satisfaction you should make final color selections from several full size shingles and view a sample of the product installed on a home. Please refer to our Legal Notices for U. Location set to view all. Show All Products. How to Install Asphalt Shingles. Here are the basic steps to shingle a roof. Ice dams form when melted snow runs down the roof to the eaves and freezes again, which forces water back up underneath the shingles.
StormShield Ice and water protector. Flashing is placed around plumbing stacks and vents to help prevent leaks. Start removing the shingles at the peak farthest from the trash container or the corner you want to collect the shingles in. Use a garden fork or a roofing shovel to pull them off quickly, use the hammer-method and go by hand for a more thorough job. Make sure that you protect the sides of the house and the windows during this process, like by leaning a large piece of plywood against the house below where you are working.
Otherwise you might break a window or damage the siding. Pry up the nails and loosening the ridge caps. It's okay if you don't get all the nails at first because you'll have a chance to go back through and remove them later. Remove the metal flashing around chimneys, vents, and valleys in the roof.
Flashing in the valleys will almost always be trashed especially. Some roofers will keep some of the flashing that's in good shape but it's probably worth junking it all when you've got the chance.
Clean the roof. Sweep the roof as clean as possible. Remove nails that didn't come up earlier. Reattach loose boards in the sheathing.
Examine the sheathing for damage and rotted boards, replacing the damaged sections. Install underlayment and new flashing. Lay asphalt, felt-paper, or special waterproof underlayment, such as a self healing membrane, over the roof. Some roofers will use pound 6. Staple this felt down, starting at the lowest point of your roof and working upward.
Overlap each row at least 3 inches. Use plenty of staples and work carefully to avoid tearing the paper. Be generous with the staples while attaching the paper to the roof deck. Use "tin caps" under staples if the roof may be exposed to wind before shingles are to be applied. Use sticky back ice and water shield as underlayment where ice dams, leaf and twig dams are likely to build up, and at valleys or where the roof ends at a wall wide metal flashing may also be used there.
Install new flashing. Nail metal flashing called "drip edge" along the bottom edge of the roof deck near the gutters. You will also need rake edge flashing for the sides of the roof. Make sure to install flashing around the chimneys and walls. These types of flashing are known as step flashing and turn back flashing.
Choose the kind of starter course you will use. You can use narrow tab-less starter shingles if you bought some GAF Pro-Start is one such brand or will be cutting your own starter shingles to fit the particular project. Some people like to only have to buy one variety of shingle and cut them to fit, while others prefer the ease of the pre-cut starter shingles without tabs. Use chalk lines to make a guide for yourself.
Depending on the type of shingles you're using and the roof you're working on, you may need to marking a chalk guideline beginning 7 inches In either case, the glue strip of the starter course is then placed along the drip edge and at the rake edges as well.
Continue to chalk additional guidelines based on the width of the shingle through at least four courses rows across the roof. When you are laying felt paper, make sure that the lines on the paper are running in a square pattern. Part 2. Cut your starter-course shingles if necessary. If you are making your own starter shingles, cut the tabs off for the "starter course" bottom row of shingles. To prepare the tabs and lay the starter course, shorten the first starter shingle by 6 inches or about a half of one tab.
You will shingle over this starter course, so the bottom course will be double thickness. Instead of cutting off all three tabs, you can also reverse the shingles for a starter course so that the entire shingle with tabs turned upward are under your first course of shingles. With either method, putting the solid edge at the drip edge and cutting 6 inches off the length of first starter shingle prevents the slots between the tabs from lining up with the first regular course laid over the starter, thus not to expose the asphalt roofing paper through the slots of that bottom row.
Nail the shingles with no tabs, such as precut Pro-Start shingles, [6] X Research source and apply asphalt cement from a caulk gun in many dots along the drip edge under the edge, then press the tab-less shingles down onto the line of asphalt cement dots with adequate spaces between the dots.
A continuous bead of asphalt could trap condensation or windblown water under the roofing at some point. Cut five different lengths for staggering slots. To make sure you've got the right sizes to lay courses correctly, cut several sizes of shingles from the three-tab variety you purchased.
Cut off one-half tab-width of the first tab to start the first course. Keep all scrap, especially any single tabs for use on the ridge cap shingles. Make the following cuts: Cut a half tab off for your first course shingles, Cut off a full tab for your second course shingles Cut one and a half tabs off of your third course shingles, Cut two tabs off your fourth course shingles For your fifth course, cut off half of the final tab Keep your sixth course tabs intact.
Start laying courses. Nail the "cut off shingle" into place, about 6 inches from its lower edge. Hammer in one nail about 2 inches from each end of each shingle and another nail about 1 inch above each cutout. Make sure to keep nails out of the tar strip as you work.
The next shingles above should cover the nails by about 1 inch vertically. Be sure that these nails will hold the top edge of the course of shingles immediately below. Put a full shingle up against the cut shingle and nail into place. Repeat this basic pattern, alternating shingles across the roof, working toward the right side, using the chalk line to keep the shingles straight horizontally.
Use 4 nails per shingle and 6 nails on the prevailing windward sides of the roof, as wind resistance nailing. Some local codes require the 6 nails on all sides. Cut the last shingle to the size you need when you reach the end of the row. You can let the excess extend off the side end of the roof and trim it down after it is nailed on, if you like.
Continue this process to the 5th row then begin the same process as the first row beginning with a full shingle and a chalk mark. Repeat all of the way to the ridge. If it is a hip roof, allow about a tab width to overhang onto the next section of roof at the hip to help strengthen the joint there. Part 3. Install the last course. Bend the last course of shingles over the ridge, up to about 6 inches, and nail it onto the other side so that the roofing extends over the top of the ridge, where nails will be covered, leaving no exposed nails.
However, do not do this if a ridge vent system is being installed as well. Nearly all modern roofs use ridge venting — the sheeting stops short on each side. End your final shingle row here, using the hook-blade for cutting. To cover the ridge, install vented cap shingles or continuous ridge vent. Bend single tabs or special ridge shingles over the ridge, beginning at the end putting a bead of asphalt under the first ridge shingle to hold down the tab.
Nail it where the next ridge shingle will cover the nails about an inch horizontally and vertically. Install the ridge shingles. With the asphalt granules exposed, across to the other end, nail the shingles on both sides of the ridge as before.
Cut off the asphalt nail line from a ridge shingle when you get to the other end. Apply a heavy bead of asphalt cement. Dot the cement under and around the edge of the last ridge shingle where you removed the nail line. Nail at the four corners to the end of the ridge and add a little dab of tar to cover the nail heads.
Also apply asphalt cement over the nail heads exposed on the last ridge shingle to prevent water leaks. Did you know you can get expert answers for this article? Unlock expert answers by supporting wikiHow.
David Bitan. Support wikiHow by unlocking this expert answer. Not Helpful 0 Helpful 0. Not Helpful 0 Helpful 1. Mark Spelman Construction Professional. Mark Spelman. Not Helpful 3 Helpful Not Helpful 4 Helpful Not Helpful 7 Helpful Not Helpful 25 Helpful Not Helpful 9 Helpful Not Helpful 26 Helpful Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered.
Before you begin to install the asphalt shingles, spread the bundles of shingles out over the roof so work will flow continuously. Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0. There is a smaller dashed line of stick down spots which is not ever covered by plastic tape that helps at the edge of shingles, but the main sticky strip is 2 or 3 times bigger, thus stronger and always needs to be uncovered! Helpful 1 Not Helpful 0. Some experts will tell you to begin in the middle in a pyramid and work both ways which allows two shingling workers to work on that same section to achieve a more balanced look.
Either way is fine.
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